INTRODUCTION
  This booklet has been prepared to give you some worthwhile information about the Stilwell Road. It tells about the places to be seen along the great military supply line, about the customs and religions of the people who inhabit this remote corner of the world, and about the part played by the men who pushed through the greatest engineering project ever undertaken in time of war.
   The opening of a land route and pipeline, to maintain a constant flow of supplies to China, has been the Number One job of the India-Burma Theater of Operations. Planned and visioned by General Joseph W. Stilwell, the gigantic project was carried to a speedy completion through the combined efforts, leadership and ability of Lt. General Dan I. Sultan, Commanding General of the India-Burma Theater, Major General W. E. R. Covell, Commanding General, Services Of Supply, IBT, and Major General Lewis A. Pick, Commanding General of the Ledo Road project, with the superb teamwork of thousands of American officers and enlisted men, plus the help of soldiers and peoples of our allies.
   There isn't a great deal to Ledo and the forward areas. Troops may not display much "spit and polish", for they have lived under rigorous conditions, toiled and sweated through monsoon mud and blistering heat, fought the Japs, jungle, malaria and monotony. But behind the drab exterior lies a fantastic story of accomplishment, certain to thrill anyone who traverses the 1079 miles of the Ledo and Burma Roads, the two great highways which form the Stilwell Road.
   For the first time in the world's history, India and China have been joined by an overland supply route. The ingenuity and efficiency of industrial workers on countless production lines back home and the blood, sweat and tears of American men in uniform, made this lifeline a reality instead of the "impossible engineering pipe-dream" the project once was termed.
   Every branch of the service played a part in hacking through this great artery. Colored and white soldiers, working long hours under soul-trying conditions, have built Stilwell Road. From the Infantrymen whose blood paved the way, to the Air Corps men who flew vital supplies to forward areas; from the Engineers who day and night pushed the point of the road deeper into the wilderness, to the Quartermaster drivers who wheeled big cargo trucks up to the front lines through mud and rain and dust; from the medics who attended the sick and wounded, to the Signal Corps soldiers who strung communications across swamps and through jungles - these men and other units, Pipe Line, Foresters, Malaria Control, Ordnance, Special Service, Chemical Warfare, Railroaders, Administrative, all have contributed a vital share to building the road. And, working with the thousands of Americans, have been thousands of Chinese and Indians, all helping to open China's blockaded borders and to keep a steady flow of supplies rolling to her, for the first time since the Japs invaded Burma in 1942.

ROUTE OF THE STILWELL ROAD
   Ahead of you are 1079 miles of the roughest driving you'll ever experience. For Stilwell Road is a military highway. The niceties of the modern four-lane thoroughfare of America over which you used to speed on your way to a Sunday picnic in the park or a dinner date with Susie have been sacrificed for military expediencies.
   Stilwell Road doesn't by-pass swamps or rough mountain terrain so the drivers of the big trucks laden with supplies can have an easier life. It lunges headlong into the precipitous Patkai Mountains, jungled tailbone of the Himalayas which separates Assam and Burma. It clings precariously to perpendicular mountainsides, leaps across turbulent mountain rivers. And then it plunges breathlessly down into Burma's vast Hukawng Valley.
   Leaving the Patkais Stilwell Road cuts across the swampy Hukawng, straight as the flight of an arrow. It crosses the bloody battleground of Jambu Bum Pass, where men of Merrill's Marauders and Chinese infantrymen battled the Japs for control of the gateway to the Mogaung Valley, and drops gradually into the Moguang's marshlands, high with elephant grass.
   Beyond Warazup on the Moguang River Stilwell Road skirts low, jungled hills which once were known only to big game hunters in search of elephant or tiger. West of Myitkyina, it bridges the broad Irrawaddy River with the longest floating bridge in the world, and cuts sharply southward over rolling hill country to the teak groves of Bhamo.
   Bomb-gutted Bhamo, with its shattered pagodas and giant gilded Bhuddas, is the pivot point of Stilwell Road. Here it veers sharply to the east and tops 5000-foot mountains, following the ancient caravan route used by Marco Polo on his journeys into China centuries ago. For more than a hundred miles it winds above emerald gorges matted with vegetation, then emerges upon the barren Shweli River Valley.
   In the Shweli Valley Stilwell Road leaves the jungle behind and threads its way across terrain dotted with round, naked hills up to Wanting on the China-Burma border.
   Out of Wanting Stilwell Road enters the foothills of the Himalayas, passing caves which the Japs blasted into solid rock mountainsides; caves in which Jap soldiers lived, fought and died as the Chinese Expeditionary Force battled to clear the enemy from the Burma Road. It scales Sungshan Mountain where, after three months of vicious warfare on the "Roof of the World," Chinese engineers burrowed beneath Jap fortifications, set off 6000 lbs. of TNT and blew the top off the mountain.
   The countryside of China over which Stilwell Road passes has a grandeur seldom equaled. The mountains are steep and rocky and their tops are fringed with pine trees which stand out against the skyline like lace on some giant shawl. The narrow mountain valleys are bright mosaics of vari-shaded greens, with splashes of yellow here and there. And everywhere are the ageless rice paddies, crumbling rock tombs and clusters of red mud huts.
   Stilwell Road threads through deep gorges, skirts and crosses raging rivers, twists and twines across range after range of mountains and drops suddenly down into valleys in a dervish of hairpin curves. And it leads northward, past Mangshih, Lungling, the Salween Gorge, Paoshan, and then does a column right to the east past Siakwan, Yunnanyi, Chennan, Lufeng to ancient Kunming.

STILWELL ROAD MILESTONES
   Here are the mile marks of the road which lies ahead of you. Consult them for interesting data on the country through which you will pass. Figures from Ledo (Mile 0.00) to Wanting (Mile 507) are given in miles. Figures from Wanting (960 Kilometers) to Kunming (0.00 Kilometers) are given in kilometers.

   MILE 0.00 - Ledo is a tiny railhead bazaar fashioned into a huge military installation. Located in the northeastern tip of Assam in the Brahmaputra River Valley, it is from here that Stilwell Road starts its long journey into the heart of China. Ledo lies at the foot of jungle-covered foothills known as the Naga Hills, which are named after the primitive, head-hunting aborigines who inhabit this wild terrain.

   MILE 38 - This is the summit of Pangsau Pass (Elev. 4500 ft.) and the India-Burma border. From the top of the pass, eight miles of steep, winding road stretch in a vast panorama below you. And, as you start down into Burma, the blue waters of Forbidden Lakes glimmer in the swampy valley floor to the south.

   MILE 79 - This is Tagap Hill (Elev. 4600 ft.) It marks the farthest point of Jap infiltration in northern Burma. In March 1943, a large Jap patrol advanced to Tagap (a Kachin village) but was forced to turn back when their native porters and elephant contractors deserted.

   MILE 103 - Shingbwiyang was the site of the Japs' northernmost supply base in Burma. It was captured by the American-trained Chinese Army in India late in 1943 and was turned into an American sub-depot when engineers pushed Stilwell Road down from the Patkai Mountains to the floor of the Hukawng Valley. Shingbwiyang, which once was a large Kachin village connected with the outside world by trails which were passable only during the dry season, lies at the foot of the Patkais. It is drenched with continuous rains during the monsoon, experiencing seasonal rainfalls exceeding 200 inches.

   MILE 178 - This is Jambu Bum (pass) where a fierce week-long battle was waged by American and Chinese infantry to clear the gateway to the Mogaung River Valley. This was a decisive battle in the Northern Burma Campaign which laid the groundwork for the surprise assault on the Jap citadel of Myitkyina a few weeks later.

   MILE 189 - This sub-depot on the Mogaung River, known as Warazup, was the scene of the biggest tank battle in northern Burma. The narrow streams which you cross in this area during the dry season become angry torrents hundreds of yards wide during the monsoon. The entire valley becomes one vast swamp. In this section the roadbed has been built as high as 15 feet above the floor of the valley to protect the highway from encroaching floods, prevalent between May and October.

   MILE 234 - This is the Kachin village of Namti, onetime Jap communications center midway between Myitkyina and Mogaung on the Rangoon-Mandalay-Myitkyina Railway. It now serves as an American sub-depot.

   MILE 254 - Here Stilwell Road crosses the Irrawaddy River over the longest bridge of the Ledo lifeline.

   MILE 372 - Bhamo once was the third largest city of Burma. Today it is a shambles of demolished pagodas and burned-out buildings sprawled dead and grotesque among groves of teak trees on the Irrawaddy River.

   MILE 439 - Namkham, in the Shweli River Valley, is another of Burma's war-shattered towns. It is the location of the great Temple of the Golden Eye, now in ruins, and Dr. Gordon S. Seagrave's famed Burma hospital. It was from Namkham that Dr. Seagrave and his petite Burmese nurses began their retreat from Burma in 1942 - an exodus described in Dr. Seagrave's book "Burma Surgeon." Dr. Seagrave - now a Lt. Colonel in the U.S. Army Medical Corps - and his nurses recently returned to Namkham after having marched with American and Chinese troops from Ledo through north Burma in the jungle campaign to drive the Japs from the path of the Ledo lifeline to China. Dr. Seagrave's hospital, situated on a knoll overlooking the town, served as a Jap army headquarters and was demolished by American bombers and Chinese artillery. Today, however, the hospital is being restored and wards have been set up among its ruins. In the meantime, part of Seagrave's medical unit moved on south in Burma with the front line troops.

   MILE 465 - Mongyu is a tiny Shan village on a hill overlooking the junction of the Ledo and Burma Roads.

   MILE 507 - Wanting (969 kilometers from Kunming) is a handful of customs buildings scattered among barren hills on the China-Burma border. Wanting was the scene of some of the bloodiest fighting of the Salween campaign, changing hands three times before soldiers of the Chinese Expeditionary Force finally secured the town and drove the Japs on down the Burma Road toward Lashio.

   KILO 837 - Lungling is a walled city on the edge of the Burma Road. The largest populated center on the road west of the Salween River, it served as principal Jap supply outlet in the Salween country and was captured by the Chinese in November, 1944, after a six-month's battle. Translation of Lungling: Lung, dragon; ling, royal tomb.

   KILO 823 - The village of Huangtsaopa offers natural hot springs which are excellent for bathing. the spa was utilized by the Japs, who built a large concrete communal bath which still is in use.

   KILO 785 - Sungshan (Pine Mountain) is a 7000-foot promontory which was known as the Jap Gibraltar of the Salween. A Jap garrison of 2000 was exterminated here after three months of constant battling on the steep slopes of the mountain. Aiding in this campaign were Chinese engineers who set off explosives, blowing the top off Sungshan and a large portion of the Jap garrison with it.

   KILO 759 - Hwei Tung Bridge over the Salween River, is the lowest point on the Burma Road portion of Stilwell Road (Elev. 2960 ft.) The original bridge, built before the Burma Road, was constructed by a wealthy Paoshan silver mine owner who wanted a shortcut between his work and home. He contributed a sum of money, collected gifts from the others interested in the shortcut and secured support from the Yunnan government. When the Burma Road was built, its route was directed to utilize the bridge.

   KILO 668 - Paoshan (Protective Mountain) is an old walled city, extensively damaged by Jap bombing in 1942.

   KILO 643 - The gate near the road at this point marks the spot reputedly used as a post for changing message couriers on the communications system established by Genghis Khan nearly 800 years ago.

   KILO 565 - Here Stilwell Road crosses the Mekong River (Beautiful River) over the Kong Ko Bridge. The Mekong River flows from Tibet, parallels the Salween River on part of its course, forms a portion of the Indo-China-Thailand boundary and flows into the South China Sea at Saigon, Indo-China.

   KILO 412 - Sprawled at the foot of 14,000-foot snow-crowned peaks is the town of Siakwan. This is the commercial center of western Yunnan Province and the intersection of the Burma Road with caravan trails used by tea traders from Shunning to the south and Tibetan traders from the north. Beyond the town are the icy blue waters of Erh Hai Lake, 30 miles long and trafficked extensively by sailboats transporting crude salt from mines north of the lake. Three towns fringe the lake - Siakwan, Tali and Sichow.

   KILO 327 - Yunnanyi (yunnan, southern clouds; yi, station) is a small, open village of old buildings.

   KILO 270 - This section of Stilwell Road where it crosses Tienatze Miao Po, is the highest point of the highway. Elevation 9200 ft.

   KILO 228 - Chennan is a small walled town. The Japs, after capturing Singapore, named it Chennan Island.

   KILO 193 - Tsuyung, an old Chinese walled city in a level valley.

   KILO 125 - I Ping Lung (one flat wave) is a small town with modern factories and buildings. Its principal industry is clarifying and solidifying salt from the surrounding hills.

   KILO 15 - Tien Chih Lake is a short distance south of Stilwell Road just outside Kunming. The lake is plied by thousands of native boats. On the Western Hills, just west of the lake, are two Buddhist temples - Huating Temple and Taihua Temple.

   KILO 0.00 - Kunming (kun, good omen; ming, bright) is the capital of Yunnan Province. It formerly was called Yunnanfu. Once a little-known city, it has become, with Chungking, the principal haven of refugees fleeing from Jap tyranny on the occupied coast of China.


HISTORY, RELIGION & CUSTOMS

HISTORY
   As you will see from the map in this booklet, Ledo is located in northeastern Assam, British India's easternmost province. A primitive and backward region, Ledo is at the end of the line in more than one way, for you will notice as your convoy starts on the long journey to China that the railroad runs only a few miles and then stops abruptly.
   The ammunition and war supplies that you are transporting to China came up this rail line from Calcutta after a journey by sea of nearly 14,000 miles from the United States. It is the longest supply line in the world.
   A few tea plantations, a colliery and brickyard are in the vicinity of Ledo, but beyond that there is nothing but thick, matted jungles and an occasional native village until you reach Burmese towns like Myitkyina, Bhamo and Namkham.
   Ledo was named after the dingy bazaar near Headquarters. It has grown into a tremendous, sprawling military installation since the Americans came to this part of the world in December 1942. Prior to that time Outer Assam was a frontier tract, visited only by game hunters and gem traders. A special permit was required to enter the jungle, and travelers waived all liability for their personal safety when they left Ledo.
   Crossing the road between Ledo and Shingbwiyang are traces of the famous Refugee Trail, scene of untold suffering and sacrifice on the part of the Burmese, Indians and British who, fleeing from the Jap hordes during the dread monsoon of 1942, picked their way through the jungles toward safety in Assam. Out of 30,000 men, women and children, starving and stumbling through the eternally dim wilds, only 20,000 reached a haven in India. Bones and belongings of the 10,000 victims of this tragic exodus were left to bleach and rot in the moldy, leech infested jungles.
   Burma, which is about the size of Texas, has had a colorful history, dotted by clashes between native chieftains and later with Siam, China and the British. Until 1886 the country was ruled by its own native monarchs, but as a result of the Anglo-Burmese War of 1885 the last portion of independent Burma was incorporated into British India on January 1, 1886.
   Upon pacification of Upper Burma, the entire country was unified, and in 1897 was made a province of British India. The move was unfortunate, however, and a campaign for complete separation from India bore fruit when, in 1937, Burma was made a colony. Under her new constitution, Burma had become in all but name a self-governing dominion. With the exception of the Philippines, no tropical dependent of any empire has attained so large a degree of autonomy.
   In your trip over Stilwell Road, you will penetrate less than one-fourth the length of Burma. The region through which you pass is frontier country, merging with Yunnan, ancient province of Southwest China, an equally untravelled hinterland in normal times.
   Although places in China along the Burma Road were visited by the trader Marco Polo as early as the 13th Century, the commerce and business of the country has been centered in the seacoast cities because of their accessibility by water. Yunnan did not spring into the news prominently until Japan invaded China proper in 1937 and the civilians and government agencies fled to Yunnan. Chungking became the capital of free China, and Kunming the terminus of the Stilwell Road, contains important Headquarters. With China blockaded by sea, the only route open was over the Burma Road. When the Japs swept into Burma early in 1942, the last land route between China and the outside world was sealed off for three years. On February 4, 1945 Maj. General Lewis A. Pick, leading a convoy of 113 vehicles over the Stilwell Road, entered Kunming, China, breaking that land blockade.

PEOPLES AND CUSTOMS
   You will see a strange mixture of people as your convoy winds its way toward Kunming, passing through regions which few Americans have ever been privileged to enter. Outstanding among the tribes to be seen in the Ledo-Shingbwiyang area are the Nagas, thick-legged, muscular aborigines who abound the jungle hills. These scantily clad, primitive people bob along in a dog trot, carrying a native dau, a square-bladed knife slung across their middle. Headhunters only a generation or two ago, even today they engage in tribal wars and hang skulls of their victims in their native dwellings. They are extremely friendly to Americans, however, and have proved invaluable in helping rescue pilots and soldiers lost in the dense thickets.
   Farther on you will see the Kachins, fierce tribal residents of northern Burma. The Kachins resemble the Nagas, but have finer features, and like them, live in bustees, bamboo huts built on stilts. They carry the long bladed dau and both men and women wear the longyi, a skirt-like attire which falls to the ankles. Kachins have served with our forces as scouts. Enjoying a reputation as ferocious fighters, they resisted all Jap attempts to bring them into the fold.
   Soon after you leave Myitkyina and cross the Irrawaddy, you will enter the Northern Shan States. These people resemble Chinese, simply because they are of Lao-Tai stock, blood-brothers of the Siamese and Tai of Southern China.
   At Wanting, you will enter China and observe the cheerful, spirited people who have resisted the Jap invaders longer than any of the Allied nations. Yunnanese peoples are the most numerous residents in the area traversed by the Burma Road. However, mingled in the overall Chinese pattern of Yunnanese are population groups retaining their own tribal characteristics, culture, sentiments and dialect.
   Besides the tribes resident in the villages along the Burma Road, the importations from other hsiens (districts) of workers and the infiltration of refugees from the east coast has brought about a strange mixture of peoples.

RELIGIONS
   The Nagas and Kachins are native worshipers known as Animists. Their primitive state is reflected in their religious worship, hence you will see no temples in the Patkai Hills or Upper Burma. The Kachins believe they are plagued by a variety of devils and villages have weird looking gadgets on top of thatched shrines as a tribute to things of nature.
   The predominant religion of Burma is Buddhism. As you reach the Myitkyina area and go south you will notice an increased number of temples and pagodas. At Namkham, in the ruins of the Temple of the Golden Eye, crouches a 40-ft. statue of Buddha encrusted with colorful, mirrored stones and covered with bright gilt.
   Religion occupies a foremost part in the lives of the Burmese and is one of the reasons for the picturesqueness of the country. Every town and hamlet has its own pagodas or monastery. The spiritual head of every village is the yellow-robed pongyi, or monk.
   In China you will see fewer temples, but at many places along and near the Burma Road there are impressive Buddhist structures. At Tali, six miles off the road, are two pagodas, one of which is off vertical like the leaning tower of Pisa.
   Cemeteries are scattered along the route to Kunming, many of which are hundreds of years old. These graveyards, which have withstood the ravages of time, are revered by the Chinese and sprawl for miles over the mountainsides. Near Lungling, the graves of the brave soldiers of the Chinese Expeditionary Force are to be seen, fenced in and decorated with flowers planted in old oil drums in best Chinese fashion for utilizing everything retrievable.
   Neither Burma nor China has a caste system like India. While there are distinct social stratas, there is nothing to keep the able, energetic and deserving Burmese and Chinese from rising above his neighbors.


JUNGLE NOTES
   If you're a newcomer to Assam and Burma, your conception of the jungle probably is a Hollywood-ized prefabricated vision of a wilderness wherein tigers and pythons and cobras lurk behind each vine-entangled tree, bloodthirsty natives prowl in search of unwary safaris and Dorothy Lamour skips endlessly up mysterious trails, fresh and vibrant in a silk sarong with garlands of orchids festooned about her slender throat. And perhaps your imagination even tosses in a Crosby, groaning sentimental ballads, or a Hope engaging in gay repartee with chattering monkeys in tall trees.
   But all that is dream material of which movies are woven - unfortunately so in the conspicuous lack of Dorothy Lamours in this corner of the world.
   The jungle is not an exotic green wilderness of gigantic trees, rare flowering plants, swarms of monkeys swinging from vines, writhing snakes and vicious animals. The jungle, in reality, is tall and dark and silent as death. It is an ageless confusion of tangle, matted undergrowth which confines progress to dim, narrow trails. There are snakes, tigers and leopards - even elephants, bears, bison and rhinoceroses - but they are rarely seen. The worst enemies of man in the jungle are the mosquitoes, leeches and mites.
   Nowhere in the world are there more species of insects than in the jungles of Assam and Burma. It is almost as if Mother Nature uses this country as a proving grounds to try out new models of pests with which to plague humankind. There are besides the malaria mosquito, typhus-carrying mite and leech, such annoying and dangerous pests as ticks, wasps, hornets, bees, scorpions, sand flies, house flies, spiders, ants and hundreds of others.
   Of the nearly 300 kinds of snakes known to inhabit the jungle, only 40 are poisonous. And, of these, only cobras, kraits and vipers are dangerously poisonous. However, snakes like seclusion and attack and bite only when they are trapped and cannot escape.
   Scientists have classified more than 1500 species of vegetation in the jungle country through which the engineers have cut the Ledo Lifeline. Most common of the trees is the halong - a towering, white-barked hardwood which was logged by GI forestry outfits and used in the construction of bridges and Army installations from Ledo to Wanting. Jungle housing facilities for the Army units on the road were provided by bamboo, carpentered skillfully by native worker and GI's. Bamboo grows in clumps of a hundred or so stems, averaging between 35 and 80 feet in height.
   There is beauty in the jungle too. In the late spring orchids and gardenias blossom profusely, with a gaudy background of flowering jungle trees. Birds and butterflies add swift dashes of color. And there is the ingenuity of the jungle creatures such as the vicious half-inch-long red ant which builds its nest in trees by sewing leaves together into a huge ball.
   But of all the discomforts and hardships handed the men who built the road through the jungles, the monsoon was the worst. The monsoon is a seasonal wind which blows over most of India and Burma from the southwest in the summer. In the jungles of Assam and Burma. the monsoon begins in May and ends in October. During this period rainfall exceeds 200 inches in many places, five times the seasonal precipitation on the east coast of the United States.
   These torrential rains inundate vast areas of the jungle, turning the land into a sea of mud. Downpours are followed by hot weather which makes the whole land steam. Clothing and tents mold and rot; leeches and mosquitoes come out in full force.
   The monsoon plagued the builders of the Ledo Road more than any single obstacle. Coming with the fury of a cloud burst, tons of water rush down the mountainsides in a few hours, washing out fill-ins, overflowing the huge culverts, bringing trees and debris down the raging rivers to smash at bridge foundations.
   During the summer months the matted vegetation of the jungle grows with amazing speed. In a few days, a clearing or trail will be completely obliterated by the fast growing vines, trees, ferns and thorny undergrowth, accelerated by the heat and constant rain.
   To-day, the area over which the Ledo Road winds looks relatively harmless, but venture a few hundred feet from the highway and you enter a dim, matted world possessed by natures most vicious beasts, birds, insects and pests.